The Tasting We Cannot Afford
Mark Downes and Tony Fahy
Very hard to apply the usual star ratings - partly because we didn't have prices for everything and partly because it was an extravaganza ....
1. Chablis Premier Cru, Foret, Domaine Raveneau, 2002
Off!
€
2. RuIly ler Cru, La Pucelle, Jean Marc Boillot, Cote Challonaise 2004
Beautifuil nose, hint of
wood. Not overly fat; beautifully balanced, fruit, mineral, acid
with a long finish. 13.5% Yum!
Terroirs c. €39
3. Riesling, Alsace Grand Cm
Rosacker,
Sipp Mack, Hunawir, 2003
Deeper than usual greeny-yellow.
Big petrol nose, hint of honey. Clean. Lovely finish. 12.5% From 1.3 ha on
the hill of Rosacker.
Mitchell's €22.50
4. St. Nicolas de Bourgueil,
AC L’envol, Gerald Vallée, Domaine de la Cotelleraie, Loire Valley,
2004
Deep, dark red. Bit dumb, but
hits you with a big zesty mouth-feel, good leathery grip, decent acidity,
elegant. Bit of bitterness at the end. Very pleasant.
100% Cabernet Franc from 60 year old vines, aged in oak for one year. 12.5%.
Terroirs €19.50
5. Alter Ego de Palmer,
Margaux AC, 3eme Cru, 2001 
Garnet, crystal clear. Lovely
fruit and a burst of animal. Elegant, deep, big extract, fruit and
acidity, good grip, long fruity finish . Way too young but absolutely
gorgeous; not a step wrong Lovely but pricey, and maybe even worth
it.
McHugh's €65
6. Barolo, Roggeri Ciabot
Berton, Oberto Marco
Lighter, brow-red, long legs.
Nose a bit understated. Quite fiery, very fresh, hugely fruity -
fruit gums! Ends with fresh fruit. Matured for four years in Slovenian oak
and two years in bottle before release. Not here yet. Gorgeous. 100%
Nebbiolo. 14% alc.
Gleesons c. €42
7. Brunello de Montalcino DOGC,
Pieri Agostina, 1999
Mid-red, brown rim but not
looking its age. Long legs. Very Italian nose, slightly medicinal. Fruit,
tannin, spice. Huge extract. Green fruit gums; fresh, even cool, despite
14.5%. Great fruit, long finish. Will last 25-30 years in a good
vintage.
Gleesons (Restaurant trade only) prob €90 on a wine list.
8.
Muga Selección Especial, Rioja Reserva, Bodegas Muga, 2001
Deep and murky. Heavy nose.
Fresh, fruity, big extract, hint of farmyard, silky soft, a little
vanilla. Tempranillo 70%, Garnacha 20%, Mazuelo y Graciano 10%. 13% Six
months in American and French oak. Gorgeous.
Comans/EuroSpar €23.99
9.
Tim Adams, The Fergus, Clare Valley, South Australia, 2004
Nice mid-red. Piercing
nose, spicy - spiced beef! Sweet from the alcohol, spicy, fruity, in your
face - Eucalyptus. Big fruit, not too burny given the alcohol (15%)
Grenache 55%, Syrah 23%, Cabernet Franc 22%.
Tesco €16.99
10.
Maglieri Shiraz, Steve Maglieri , McLaren Vale, S. Australia, 1997
Deep dark red; quite a clean
nose for an Oz Shiraz. Really dark berry fruit, tar. Said to have
chocolate but I didn't get it. 18 months in American oak. 14% alc.
Fantastic; nearest I've got to awarding three stars.
Originally bought at £40 by a very generous colleague.
11.
I Castei, Amarone della Valpollcella Classico, Campo Casalin, Michele
Castellani
Big dark red, nose of plums
and prunes; tastes of dried prunes mixed with apricots, with a deep, dark,
well-masked bitterness/liquorice. Smooth and gorgeous. 15% alc.
Gleesons €45
12.
Malmsey 15 Years Old Madeira, Hoririques& Henriques
Red-brown, clear.
Burnt. Good burn but still fresh, zingy. Marmalade and toffee. 20% alc.
Yummy! Will accept as Christmas present :)
Searsons €28.50 for
50cl