Why I Love Bordeaux
Peter Dunne, Mitchell & Son

1. Mitchell's Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, 2005
Typically gooseberry SB on the nose. Good acid and fruit, restrained but fresh.  Very good. From Entre-deux-mers. 12% alc.

2. Mitchell's Claret, 2005
Warm, fruitcake nose. Powdery tannins; not so pleasant as the white. Made by Sichel, this is 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet SAuvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc.

3. Chateau d'Argadens, Bordeaux Superieur, 2003
Mid-red, leggy; bit cold and dumb. Crunchier tannins, nice fruit, spicy. Teeny bit sappy but nice. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 55% Merlot.

4. Chateau la Croix du Casse, Pomerol, 1997
Mid to light red. Slightly smoky, quite distinctive plum nose. Tannins well integrated, lovely fruit; still leaves a coating on the teeth and has a somewhat bitter aftertaste.  This is a 'restaurant wine' - ready early. Very nice - shame about the price. 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. 12.5% alc.

5. Chateau Sansonnet, St Emilion Grand Cru, 2001
Quite dark. Smoky nose; tar, sea weed. Quite stern and tannic but lively. Long finish. I'm not sure I like it (I certainly prefer no. 4) but it is definitely complex and interesting. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.

6. Clos des Templiers, Lalande de Pomerol, 2004
Mid to dark red. Lovely nose.  Young; cool, bitter aftertaste. The condensed milk taste that I associate with Cab Sauvignon coming through. Leather and powdery tannins.  unlikely to improve.  '04 was said to be good but '03 and '05 were very highly priced (by the market). 70% Merlot and 30% Cab Franc.

7. Chateau Clarke, Listrac-en-Medoc, 2001
Dark, appears unfiltered. Lovely, light, nose of cedar and pastilles. Toasty oak, fruit gums, enough grip, attractive fruit, hint of sweetness.  I like this a lot. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.

8. Sarget de Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, 2003
Mid-red.  Weird nose; red fruit and spice. In the mouth a lovely, clean, fruity flavour that becomes quite sharp and has crunchy-powdery tannin.  This, the second wine of Gruaud Larose, is well priced, definitely needs time but is not for me.

9. Chateau Smith Haut Lafite, Pessac-Leognan, 2003
Nice, clear dark red; spirituous nose with spicy wood and almonds; leggy. Accessible, good backbone, loads of fruit. Quite like one of the better Australians: Fresh, complex, clean wood.  Superb, but a pity about the over-dry finish.

10. Mitchell's Gold Graves Superieures, 2004
Not by any means sickly sweet but not as clean as I'd like. Nonetheless good acid, nicely honeyed, reasonably priced and very nice. Semillon 50%, Sauvignon Blanc 50%.  Also Harrod's own-label sweetie.

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