North by North West
Jim McCabe

Wines from Spain north of Madrid.

1. Itsas Mendi, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Basque, 2008
Lovely citrus nose. Nice zing, tangy lemon and lime with a really fine, lively finish. A bit like Muscadet! The name is Basque for "Sea and Mountain"; the DO is Bizkaiko Txakolina overlooking the Bay of Biscay, near Bilbao; the grape is the native variety Hondarrabi Zuri, fermented in stainless steel; winemaker is Ana Martín. Very unusual.
McCabes €16.50

2. Terre do Lobo Godello, Monterei, Galicia, 2009
Not such a big nose. Quite rounded, nice, not so zingy as 1 but with a long finish. Grew on me the more I tasted it. Reminded me of apple pie. Godello grape; grown on shale, stainless steel fermenting, no oak. 13.5% alc and 92 from Robert Parker.
McCabes €13.95

3. Campos de Luz, Old Vine Garnacha, Carinena, Aragon, 2009
Clear, light red. Cherries. Big, gutsy, oily wine: very nice, very gluggable and a very decent price. On the Ebro river; stainless steel, no oak, 13.5% alc, 86 from Parker.
McCabes €9.25

4.Manga del Brujo, Calatayud, 2008
Again light red. Bit dumb. Good burn; slightly medicinal - herbs? Spicy. Quite rounded, a bit of grip. Nice brambly fruits. Winemaker Norrel Robertson (The Flying Scotsman); 65% Garnacha Tinta, with Syrah, Tempranillo, Mazuela and Monastrell . Some oak. Parket gives it 91.
McCabes €12.95

5. Tilenus Roble, White Label, Bierzo, 2005 
Garnet. Beautiful nose, reminds me a bit of Five Heirs Cristina. And the Mencía grape is said to be like Cabernet Franc (whew!).Soft and fruity bit with a decent oaky, tannic backbone. Grown on slate and with 12 months in French and American oak. Gets better and better as I sip.
McCabes €15.95

6. Museum Real, Reserva , Cigales 2004
Lovely light red; light enough to be Pinot. Bit dumb. in the mouth, slightly powedery tannins, vanilla, burn. Black fruits. The approach is slightly watery bit it develops wonderfully. Tempranillo (Tinta Fino, Tinta del País); two years in new oak. 14%. Parker awards it 90 and it was red wine of the year at the Irish Wine Show.
McCabes €19.95, was €15.95 in Jus de Vine 

7. Translanzas, Cigales, 2006
Deep, inky red. Very strange noise; can't put my finger on it. Oak? Loads of fruit, full-bodied, quite stern, powedery tannins, a hint of something odd. Will almost certainly improve with age. (I remember having the same feeling about Mulderbosch Faithful Hound and it turned out superbly.) Limestone; 60 year old Tempranillo vines; two years in American oak; Ana Martín again. 
McCabes €27

8. A/N 2, Anima Negra, Fallanis, Majorca, 2008 
Lightish red with a pale rim. Oaky nose. Quite stern but lots of fruit. Oak and red fruit pastilles. Nice but far too dear. Grapes 60% Callet, 20% Manto Negre, 15%  Syrah/Shiraz. 35% in American and French oak. 13.5% alc. 2007 gpt 91 from Parker.
McCabes €19.95

9. Lopez Cristobal Crianza, Ribera del Duero, 2006 
Looks young. Very light. Initially felt a bit "weak" but follows on with a big burn and lots of fruit. Good grip, fresh, needs time. Winemaker Javier Garcia; 90% Tempranillo, 5% Cab Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. New French and American oak. 13.5% alc
McCabes €19.95 

10. Convento, San Francisco, Ribera del Duero, 2005
Lovely deep red. Very oaky nose. Lovely, deep, comforting fruit with a touch of burn. A bit of sour at the end on the sideof the tongue.Unsweetened fruitcake; pencil parings. Way too young; will improve a lot. 90% Tempranillo, 10% Merlot; grown on 46 different sites; French and American oak. 93 from Parker.
McCabbess €30

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