Burgundy Revisited
Conor Richardson
Burgundy Direct
1. Saint-Veran A.C., Domaine Corsin, 1996
Light colour, a hint of green. Rich, butterscotch nose. Good balance of acid, fruit and alcohol. Oaky, young and vigorous. Will come together over the next 1-2 years
£9.50
2. Pouilly-Fuisse A.C., Domaine Corsin, 1992
Almost yellow. Wonderfully subtle nose; citrus and maybe apricot. Quite creamy, heavy, but still zingy and oaky. A "waxy" character in the mouth. Long aftertaste with alcohol and oak still noticeable.
£13.75
3. Chablis 1er Cru 'Fourneaux" A.C., Domaine Grossot, 1994
"The green eye of a good Chablis." Nose not so pronounced, some wood. Much less impact than expected on the palate. Ends quite acidic. Many thought it excellent (and it won the Wine Spectator award) but I was somewhat disappointed.
£13.50
4. Isonzo, Vie de Romans, Friuli, 1995
Tasted blind. Light yellowy green in colour. Smoky nose, with fruit. On the palate had lots of fruit and good acid, very pleasant. I guessed not Burgundy, thought maybe Californian.
£13.75
5. Michel Lafarge, Passe tout grains, 1995
Relatively light, some brown rim. Not a very Pinot nose, hint of Beaujolais. Quite acid and fruity taste, very "burny", a bit sweet. Pinot and Gamay. Tried it several times in Burgundy, where it is the cheapest plonk available: Couldn't get to like it even before I knew it had Gamay in it (pardon my prejudices again).
£8.95
6. Rully 1er Cru A.C., Domaine Andre Delorme, Cote Challonaise, 1995
Almost ruby red, watery around the edges. Nose a bit closed. Quite supple tannins, raspberry flavours and good acid to set it off. Quite young, a bit too like fruit juice yet.
£10.50
7. Pernand-Vergelesses A.C., Domaine Besancenot, 1993
Much more elegant colour - a bit darker. Lovely fruitcake nose. Very austere, smooth. Quite a bit of tannin but loads of fruit to see it out. Very young yet, but nice.
£12.50
8. Volnay A.C., Domaine Lafarg, 1994
Light red, brown rim. Big nose, earthy. Quite a mouthful. Very light tannins, fruity. Some time to go yet, maybe 2-3 years.
£16.50
9. Beaune 1er Cru 'Bessandes' A.c., Domaine Besancenot, 1993 
Deep red. Complex nose. Austere, fruity, quite sharp tannins. Will improve - a ten-year wine. Quite strongly acidic finish. Very good.
£18.50
10. Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru 'Pruliers', Domaine R. Chevillon, 1993
Very deep red. Quite jammy nose, with a small hint of the farmyard. Very tannic. Verging on the jammy. Chewy and spicey; even un-Burgundian. Way too young, but still drinking now. 12, maybe 15 year wine. Worth it even at the price.
£22.95